Most people coming to Des Moines want to eat at some exotic, fine, well-known eatery in central Iowa. However, take one of my recommendations for hometown food. Not only has the food been delicious, but several of the following locations have served some very famous people in the past.
Years ago, a friend joined me to dine at George the Chili King, a greasy spoon drive-in close to the corner of Hickman Road and Merle Hay Road. The namesake chili is a menu item I tried once. It may have been simmering slowly and easy for the flavors to meld, but you shouldn’t have to peel off the crusty layer in order to get to the smudge that could have been burnt at the bottom of the pot. I was told that I was there on the wrong day. However, I stopped several times, and each must have been the wrong day. The décor was from the 1950s and so was the dust. But if you could get past the gloveless counter employees wiping their hands on their shirts, the tenderloin and fries were great! The aura of overused fryer oil permeated the air and stuck with you for the rest of the day, sort of like the meal.
The owners died and the dive closed. Recently, the sign was sold and removed from the partially-damaged roof. It looks like we’re not going to enjoy George’s menu items any longer.
George was an economic and environmental leader as he transformed the deep fat fryer’s grease into fuel for his modified pickup engine. I believe in supporting a business that is into recycling.
This business’ famous visitor was Guy Fieri of Diners, Drive-ins and Dives in 2014.
At one time, a burger at Kelly’s Little Nipper on East Grand Avenue in Des Moines was one of the best in Iowa. This establishment, founded in 1940, was once filled at noon with legislators and lobbyists trying to find a booth or table amongst the regulars. Most patrons enter through the back door since the best parking is across the street in a bumpy dirt lot. It’s not fast food by any measure, but the burgers and grinders are the best in Des Moines. The food is moderately priced and plentiful.
One afternoon, the place was so full, my guest and I had to sit at a small table by the door because even the bar was packed. There is a large round table by the front door. That day, eight of the nine Iowa Supreme Court justices were dining around the large oak table. You have to know the place is on the high end of Des Moines eateries when the Iowa Chief Justice and seven of his associates were having a fulfilling meal. If you attend the Iowa State Fair, the saloon is not too far out of your way; or right on the way if you happen to drive down East Grand Avenue. You will spot it readily as the only building on the block that appears to be leaning.
Zombie Burger in the East Village is a favorite of many visitors to Des Moines. My favorite sandwich, the Undead Elvis is a burger with peanut butter, fried bananas, bacon, American cheese, a fried egg, and mayo. I’ll have to request holding the mayo from now on. I think it gives me heartburn. The famous people at this establishment will often include a few legislators and lobbyists – sipping martinis during a noon break in the daily action at the Capitol up the street.
Another place on my list is not in Des Moines, but halfway between Des Moines and Iowa City/Cedar Rapids. Iowa’s Best Burger in Iowa Café is a small establishment near the Kellogg exit on I-80. Be sure to order fries with your burger.
My final recommendation is the Capitol cafeteria at the Statehouse. Governor Branstad used to frequent the cafeteria during the noon hour and speak with diners on occasion. He never chose to sit with me. When the late Mark Cady was the Chief Justice, he would bring an associate along with him and sit in the cafeteria to hear what any Iowan had to say about the courts. They didn’t get much company, but I sat with them when no one else would. One so-called famous person you won’t see in the Iowa Capitol cafeteria is Governor Kim Reynolds. How could her conscience allow her to be seen eating in public after turning down $29 million of federal funding that would have provided a low-income family $40 per month “to help with food costs” during the 3-month break in the school year.
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This blog is adapted from an article with the same title in the Summer 2024 issue of The Prairie Progressive. [$15.00 for a 1-year subscription]
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